製作TSUMAMI細工手藝花簪—Making Hana Kanzashi
【製作細工手藝花簪 Making Hana Kanzashi】
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| 圖／Photo by Takayama Kengo, A-PROJECTS |
這些髮飾中使用的花朵有兩種製作方法：Zouka（“人造花”）和 Tsumami（“手捏花”）。在這裡，我們將介紹Tsumami的方法（也稱為Tsumami Saiku或Tsumami工藝）。我們將遵循Tsumami 細工手藝的古法製作過程，製作構成髮簪的花朵。
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| 圖／Google |
There are two methods of making the flowers used in these hairpins: Zouka (“artificial flowers”) and Tsumami (“pinching”). Here, we will look at the tsumami method (also known as Tsumami Saiku or Tsumami Craft). We will follow the Tsumami process that produces the flowers making up a hairpin.
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| 圖／Google |
使用一種名為Habutae的高品質平紋絲綢，來製作Tsumami細工手捏花。這是一種薄絲綢，比和服用的要輕薄柔軟一些。近年來，要取得Habutae以及最好的上漿原料和其他傳統工具和材料顯然變得相當地不容易。因此，現今的細工手藝師傅很難為髮簪提供像過去一樣的完成方式。
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| 圖／Google |
A high quality plain-weave silk called Habutae is used to make Tsumami flowers. This is thin silk, slightly lighter than that used for Kimono. In recent years, it has apparently become difficult to obtain Habutae as well as the best type of starch and other traditional tools and materials. As a result, it is a struggle for makers today to give the hairpins the same finish as in the past.
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| 圖／Photo by Takayama Kengo, A-PROJECTS |
日式梅花簪 Japanese Plum Blossom Tsumami
現在我們來看看日式梅花簪 Japanese Plum Blossom Tsumami是如何製作的。首先，將細工手捏花的布裁剪成適合製作花朵的正確尺寸。小朵的日式梅花需要2.3公分左右的布片。有大約 1.5 毫米間距，最小的花——小菊花——需要長寬大約1.5公分的小布片。
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| 圖／Google |
We will now look at how a Japanese Plum Blossom Hana Kanzashi is made. First, the Tsumami cloth is cut to the correct size for the flower in question. Small Japanese Blum Blossoms require pieces around 2.3 cm square. There is serration of around 1.5 mm , and the smallest flowers—small chrysanthemums— require pieces of cloth around 1.5 cm square.
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| 圖／Photo by Takayama Kengo, A-PROJECTS |
最大的花朵——牡丹或櫻花——需要大約 6 公分見方的花朵。Hime Nori paste（由煮熟至軟的大米或小麥製成）厚厚地舖在日本柏木板上。用鑷子將布片對折兩次。接下來，翻開兩側的邊角並與另一個側對齊，以形成一個三角形。
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| 圖／Photo by Takayama Kengo, A-PROJECTS |
The biggest flowers—peonies or cherry blossoms—require pieces of around 6 cm square. Hime Nori Paste (made from rice or wheat cooked until soft) is spread thickly on a Japanese cypress board. The squares of cloth are folded in half twice with tweezers. Next, the points on each side are opened and lined up with the other point to form a triangle.
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| 圖／Google |
用鑷子將折疊好的布片中心重新定位，將布片排列成花瓣狀。然後將花瓣放在Hemenori糊上。
The center of the folded cloth is repositioned with the tweezers, and the cloth is arranged in the shape of a petal. The petals are then placed on the Himenori paste.
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| 圖／Photo by Takayama Kengo, A-PROJECTS |
製作花朵 Making the flowers
花瓣一個接著一個地放在圓形的紙板底座上，底座連接著一根線材。
One by one, the petals are placed onto a round paperboard base attached to a wire rod.
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| 圖／Photo by Takayama Kengo, A-PROJECTS |
放置 Setting
將完成的花朵放在稱為Tsuto的架子上，然後晾乾約 24 小時。
The finished flowers are put into a stand known as a Tsuto and left to dry for around 24 hours.
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| 圖／Photo by Takayama Kengo, A-PROJECTS |
增添細節 Adding details
增添細節讓花朵看起來更加地真實。例如，加上用金線包裹的細線螺所旋製成的花蕊。藉由在邊緣塗上一抹白色，讓花朵冒出來的紅色的小花苞得以真實的體現。
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| 圖／Google |
Details are added to make the flowers look more real. For example, stamens are added, created from spirals of thin wire wrapped in gold thread. Authenticity is given to small red buds by putting a touch of white on their edges.
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| 圖／Photo by Takayama Kengo, A-PROJECTS |
組合花朵 Grouping the flowers
將花莖用低撚絲線（Hira Ito）纏繞在一起。由於線不是單色而是結合了兩種顏色，因此增加了微妙的細微差別。對於日式梅花，所使用的兩種顏色分別為紅色和Hiwa（明亮的黃綠色）。
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| 圖／Google |
The flower stems are grouped together by winding with low-twist silk thread (Hira Ito). A subtle nuance is added by the fact that the thread is not single-colored but combines two colors. For Japanese Plum Blossom, the two colors are set as Red and Hiwa (a bright yellowy green).
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| 圖／Photo by Takayama Kengo, A-PROJECTS |
對於櫻花，則使用Hiwa和Toki（淺粉色），或單獨使用Hiwa。花苞的部分，製作了六個並用兩個組件由Hiraito黏合綁定在線芯上。
For Cherry Blossom, Hiwa and Toki (a light pink) are used, or hiwa on its own. For buds, two components are bound with Hiraito to the wire core, and six of these are made.
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| 圖／Photo by Takayama Kengo, A-PROJECTS |
製作細工手藝花簪：組裝 Making Hana Kanzashi: assembly
將各個部分的組件匯集在一起。把花朵固定在髮簪上。花朵以圓形的形式一次一個地用Hiraito沾黏捆綁在一起。最後用鑷子進行修飾，調整所有的角度以確保花朵呈現圓形。有時候會添加一串懸掛垂墜的花瓣（Bura）。
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| 圖／Google |
The various components are brought together. The flowers are fixed to the pin. The flowers are bound with Hiraito one at a time in a round formation. Finishing touches are made with tweezers, with any angles corrected to ensure a round shape for the flowers. Strings of dangling blossoms (bura) are sometimes added.
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| 圖／Photo by Takayama Kengo, A-PROJECTS |
Source: Google Arts and Culture
Information Provided by: Kintakedo
Photo by: Takayama Kengo, A-PROJECTS
Supported by: Kyoto Museum of Traditional Crafts, Fureaikan
Text Written by: Yamamoto Masako（Research Fellow of Japan Society for the Promotion of Science (JSPS)）
Chinese Translated by: Cindy Liao
Photo by: Takayama Kengo, A-PROJECTS
Supported by: Kyoto Museum of Traditional Crafts, Fureaikan
Text Written by: Yamamoto Masako（Research Fellow of Japan Society for the Promotion of Science (JSPS)）
Chinese Translated by: Cindy Liao
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