細工手藝TSUMAMI的花簪種類—Types of Hana Kanzashi

圖/Photo by Takayama Kengo, A-PROJECTS

【細工手藝TSUMAMI的花簪種類 Types of Hana Kanzashi】

舞伎每個月都會配戴不同的Hana Kanzashi花簪。舞伎總共需要有13種髮簪,包括祗園祭時所配戴的髮飾。

圖/先斗町歌舞會 Kamogawa Odori

Maiko wear Hana Kanzashi with different flowers each month. Including the hairpins associated with the Gion Festival, a maiko needs to have a total of 13 types of hairpins. 

圖/祇園甲部歌舞會 Miyako Odori

此外,在各個藝伎區於春季舉行舞蹈表演時所使用的花簪。它們分別是宮古大通(與祗園甲武地區有關)、祗園大通(祗園東)、京大通(宮川町)、鴨川大通(先斗町)和北野大通(上七軒)。

圖/祇園東歌舞會 Gion Odori

In addition, the various geisha districts hold dance performances in the spring. These are the Miyako Odori (associated with the Gion Kōbu district), the Gion Odori (Gion Higashi), the Kyō Odori (Miyagawacho), the Kamogawa Odori (Pontocho), and the Kitano Odori (Kamishichiken). 

圖/上七軒歌舞會  Kitano Odori

每個藝伎區都會製作獨特設計的髮飾為了符合演出需求,髮飾用以配合當年度表演的主題、服裝、以及舞者。髮飾的設計和製作方式並沒有記錄下來以流傳後世。這些流傳已久的設計工藝是從工匠的記憶和長期經驗中重新創造出來的。

圖/宮川町歌舞會 Kyo Odori

Hairpins with designs unique to each geisha district are made for these meetings, as well as hairpins that suit that year’s performance theme, costumes, or dancers. Hairpin designs and manufacturing methods are not written down for posterity. Long-standing designs that have been passed down are recreated from the craftsmen’s memory and long experience.

圖/祇園東歌舞會 Gion Odori

一月:冬菊上的扇子與松枝 

January: Fans and Pine on Winter Chrysanthemums

花簪每年都會使用不同的設計。圖樣上似乎經常將兩個或三個主題組合在一起。一月的典型圖案包括冬菊、松樹、竹子、日本梅花、打手毽和矮竹葉。

圖/Photo by Takayama Kengo, A-PROJECTS

Different designs are used each year. It seems that two or three motifs are often combined. Typical motifs for January include winter chrysanthemums, pine, bamboo, Japanese plum blossoms, battledores, and dwarf bamboo leaves.

圖/Photo by Takayama Kengo, A-PROJECTS

二月:小日本梅花(帶有懸垂的花瓣裝飾)

February: Small Japanese Plum Blossoms (with dangling bura decorations)

圖/Photo by Takayama Kengo, A-PROJECTS

三月:水仙(單花或五花)

March: Narcissus (single bloom or five blooms)

圖/Photo by Takayama Kengo, A-PROJECTS

水仙最初與二月有關,但它們也經常用於三月,因為那個月的其他花朵之中只有油菜籽這一種。
Narcissus were originally associated with February, but they are often also used in March, because rapeseed is the only other flower for that month.

圖/Photo by Takayama Kengo, A-PROJECTS

四月:櫻花(三花或五花)

April: Cherry Blossoms (three blooms or five blooms)

圖/Photo by Takayama Kengo, A-PROJECTS

圖/Photo by Takayama Kengo, A-PROJECTS

五月:鳶尾花(三花或五花)

May: Iris (three blooms or five blooms)

圖/Photo by Takayama Kengo, A-PROJECTS

牡丹花和紫藤花也是在五月的時候使用。
Peonies and wisteria are also used in May.

圖/Photo by Takayama Kengo, A-PROJECTS

六月:柳樹

June: Willow

圖/Photo by Takayama Kengo, A-PROJECTS

繡球花也是在六月的時候使用。
Hydrangeas are also used in June.

圖/Photo by Takayama Kengo, A-PROJECTS

七月:舞扇或圓紙扇

July: Dance Fans or Round Paper Fans

圖/Photo by Takayama Kengo, A-PROJECTS

圖/Photo by Takayama Kengo, A-PROJECTS

祭典(祉園祭)

Festival (Gion Festival)

圖/Photo by Takayama Kengo, A-PROJECTS

7 月的時候,只有在祗園祭期間才會佩戴特定的髮飾設計。
In July, specific hairpin designs are worn during the Gion Festival only.

圖/Photo by Takayama Kengo, A-PROJECTS

八月:芒草

August: Miscanthus Grass

圖/Photo by Takayama Kengo, A-PROJECTS

牽牛花的髮飾也是用於八月。
Morning glory is also used in August.

圖/Photo by Takayama Kengo, A-PROJECTS

圖/Photo by Takayama Kengo, A-PROJECTS

九月:桔梗(三花或五花)

September: Bellflower (three blooms or five blooms)

圖/Photo by Takayama Kengo, A-PROJECTS

圖/Photo by Takayama Kengo, A-PROJECTS

十月:菊花(三花或五花)

October: Chrysanthemum (three blooms or five blooms)

圖/Photo by Takayama Kengo, A-PROJECTS

圖/Photo by Takayama Kengo, A-PROJECTS

十一月:秋天的小楓葉

November: Small Autumn Maple Leaves

圖/Photo by Takayama Kengo, A-PROJECTS

銀杏葉等,也用於十一月。
Ginkgo leaves etc, are also used in November.

圖/Photo by Takayama Kengo, A-PROJECTS

圖/Photo by Takayama Kengo, A-PROJECTS

十二月:年糕上的“招來”設計

December: “Maneki” on New Year Rice Cakes

在每年12月時,京都的南座劇場都會舉辦歌舞伎正式出道(顔見世)的歌舞伎表演。在會場上,被稱為"招來"的傳統佈告牌張貼了當季首次亮相的表演者的名字。

Each December, Kaomise—official debut Kabuki performances—are held at the Minamiza theater in Kyoto. At the venue, traditional noticeboards known as "Maneki"  post the names of performers in the seasonal debut.

圖/Photo by Takayama Kengo, A-PROJECTS

在舉行歌舞伎出道公演的期間,有一個名為“Kagai Sōken”的活動,會吸引五大藝伎區的藝伎和舞伎前來觀賞表演。

During the period in which the Kaomise Kabuki debut performances are being held, there is an event known as "Kagai Sōken", in which the Geisha and Maiko of the five Geisha Districts come to watch the performance. 

圖/Photo by Takayama Kengo, A-PROJECTS

舞伎會佩戴著自己的小“招來”裝飾的髮夾,當他們去後台向演員致敬時,演員們會在舞伎的空白傳統"招來"佈告牌上寫下他們的名字。

The Maiko wear hairpins decorated with their own small “Maneki” and, when they go to pay their respects to the actors backstage, the actors write their names on the Maiko’s blank Maneki.

註:"Maneki"通常有“招來顧客”的意思,日本著名的"Maneki-neko 招財貓"代表能帶來好運、招來客人與錢財的意思。

圖/祇園甲部歌舞會 Miyako Odori

Source: Google Arts and Culture
Information Provided by: Kintakedo
Photo by: Takayama Kengo, A-PROJECTS
Supported by: Kyoto Museum of Traditional Crafts, Fureaikan
Text Written by: Yamamoto Masako(Research Fellow of Japan Society for the Promotion of Science (JSPS))
Chinese Translated by: Cindy Liao

下期文章:祇園甲部歌舞會/ Miyako Odori/ 都をどり

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