什麼是TSUMAMI細工手藝?—What are Hana Kanzashi?

圖/Photo by Takayama Kengo, A-PROJECTS

【什麼是TSUMAMI細工手藝? What are Hana Kanzashi?】

精緻的細工手藝花簪有著季節性的花卉圖案,是舞伎(藝伎學徒)所佩戴的頭飾。Hana Kanzashi(日本傳統手工花卉圖案的裝飾髮簪)有著季節性的花卉圖樣。自奈良時代以來,這種髮夾尤其是高品質的髮飾,一直以來都妝點著日本女性的頭髮。

圖/Google

Delicate Kanzashi hairpins with seasonal floral motifs, worn by Maiko (apprentice Geishas). Hana Kanzashi (traditional Japanese flower-decorated ornamental hairpins) have seasonal flower motifs. Such hairpins, particularly those of high quality, have adorned the hair of Japanese women since the Nara period.

圖/Google

它們與當代的京都有關——尤其是與住在京都藝伎區的舞伎或學徒藝伎有關。當舞伎首次亮相(顔見世)時,便會製作新的Hana Kanzashi。舞伎每個月都會戴不同的髮飾。

圖/Google

They are associated with modern-day Kyoto—in particular with the Maiko, or apprentice Geisha, who live in Kyoto's Geisha Districts. New Hana Kanzashi are made when a maiko makes her debut (Kaomise). The Maiko wear different hairpins each month.

圖/Google

還有專門用於祗園祭等特殊活動的髮飾。每個藝伎區以及春季和秋季所舉行的舞蹈表演中,佩戴的髮飾都有特定的設計。還可以選擇髮飾來搭配個人表演或服裝。

圖/Google

There are also hairpins specific for special events such as the Gion Festival. There are set designs for each geisha district and for the hairpins worn at dance performances held in the spring and the fall. Hairpins can also be chosen to match individual performances or costumes.

圖/Photo by Takayama Kengo, A-PROJECTS

現代的Hana Kanzashi主要分為兩大類:Katsuyama髮飾(放置在頭頂上,相當大又長的裝飾品)以及Kanzashi髮飾(或 Daikan髮簪;其中一串有著三角形花瓣的裝飾,掛在主要的花朵上,被稱作為Bura )。

圖/Google

Hana Kanzashi can be worn in pairs, one on each side of the head, or a single hairpin can be worn alone. Modern-day Hana Kanzashi fall into two broad categories: Katsuyama hairpins (sizeable long ornaments placed at the top of the head) and Kanzashi hairpins (or Daikan hairpins; in which strings of triangular petal ornaments known as Bura hang down from the main flowers).

圖/Google
當一名年輕女性成為舞伎時,她會佩戴Katsuyama和Kanzashi髮飾,這種髮型被稱為 Wareshinobu。這是一種特別迷人的髮型,並使用大量的小花作為裝飾。
圖/Google
When a young women becomes a maiko, she wears both Katsuyama and Kanzashi hairpins in a hairstyle known as Wareshinobu. This is a particularly charming hairstyle involving a large number of small flowers. 
圖/Google
兩三年之後,隨著舞伎的學徒時期接近尾聲,她的髮型也轉變成只有Kanzashi髮簪和梳子,沒有Katsuyama髮簪的Ofuku風格。髮型中的花朵也會選用更為“沉穩”的樣式。 髮簪也可以是為平常一般人所製作的樣式,但在大小等方面會有一些差異。
圖/Google
After two or three years, as the maiko's apprenticeship period draws to a close, her hairstyle also changes to the Ofuku style, which involves only Kanzashi hairpins and combs, with no Katsuyama hairpins. There is also a move towards a more “settled” look in terms of the flowers in the hairstyle. The hairpins can also be made for ordinary people, but there are some differences in size, etc.
圖/Google
Source: Google Arts and Culture
Information Provided by: Kintakedo
Photo by: Takayama Kengo, A-PROJECTS
Supported by: Kyoto Museum of Traditional Crafts, Fureaikan
Text Written by: Yamamoto Masako(Research Fellow of Japan Society for the Promotion of Science (JSPS))
Chinese Translated by: Cindy Liao


下期文章:製作細工手藝花簪 Making Hana Kanzashi

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